The Material Rundown - Most Common UK Construction Screws (And What They’re Good For)

If you’re working on a build and wondering which screw to reach for, this guide breaks down the most common UK construction screws I use day in, day out. No jargon—just what works, what doesn’t, and why it matters.

Multipurpose Screws

Used for timber, MDF, chipboard, and even thin metal, multi-purpose screws are a staple on site. The best ones have sharp points, self-countersinking heads, and take high torque without slipping.

Personally, I’ve found SPAX YELLOX Universal Screws - https://tidd.ly/3XdgMyw to be top-notch — they feel solid, don’t round off under pressure, and hold strong. In contrast, budget-brand screws often snap or strip when you need them most. If you’re building anything that matters, it’s worth spending a few extra quid for screws that won’t let you down.

Decking Screws

Corrosion-resistant and designed specifically for outdoor timber, decking screws are usually green or coated to withstand the elements.

I’ve had great results with SPAX T-Star Wirox coated Decking Screw - https://tidd.ly/49yh6PU they drive clean, sit flush, and stay hidden, which gives a much more aesthetically pleasing finish. Crucially, they don’t rust or snap under pressure. I’ve seen decks put together with ordinary multi-purpose screws, and it’s a big no-no. They’re not built for outdoor use — they rust, stain the timber, and can shear off over time.

If you’re building a deck that’s meant to last, proper decking screws are non-negotiable.

Coach Screws (Hex Head)

Heavy-duty fixings for structural timber, fence posts, and sleepers. These screws are thick, dense, and built to bite deep into wood without splitting. They’re ideal for jobs where strength matters — like securing joists, fixing gate posts, or anchoring sleepers.

In terms of quality, I’ve not noticed huge differences between brands. Most coach screws are solid and dependable, especially when paired with proper pilot holes and washers. The hex head makes them easy to drive with a socket or impact wrench, and they’re less likely to strip under torque compared to standard screw heads.

If you’re working with chunky timber and need serious holding power, coach screws are the way to go. Just don’t forget to pre-drill — they’re not self-drilling, and skipping that step can split your timber or burn out your driver.

Drywall Screws (Coarse Thread)

Designed for timber studwork, these screws are coated in black phosphate to resist corrosion and drive cleanly through plasterboard. Most come with PH2 heads, which require less torque to drive in — ideal for fast, repetitive fixing with minimal strain on your drill or driver.

Drywall Screws (Fine Thread)

Designed for fixing plasterboard to metal studwork, these screws have a finer thread that grips better in steel. They’re often used with collated screw guns for speed and efficiency — especially on large-scale jobs.

I’ll be honest — I haven’t used these much myself. They tend to show up more on big development sites where metal framing is standard. For most domestic or small-scale builds, timber studwork and coarse-thread drywall screws are far more common.

Concrete Screws (e.g. Thunderbolts)

These are a game-changer for fixing into brick, block, or concrete. Unlike traditional methods that require a wall plug and screw combo, concrete screws only need a pilot hole — then you drive them straight in. No plugs, no faff, and they hold tight.

They’re ideal for securing timber frames, battens, or brackets directly to masonry. Quick to install, easy to remove if needed, and reliable under load. Most concrete screws come with Torx heads, which give better grip and reduce cam-out — especially useful when driving into tough materials. You get a cleaner drive and less chance of stripping the head.

Brand-wise, I’ve found most to be much of a muchness. As long as you drill the correct pilot hole and use a decent driver bit, they all tend to perform well. Just make sure you’re not skimping on the drill bit — that’s what makes or breaks the fix.

Wall Plug + Screw Sets

A classic fixing method for brick and block walls, still widely used across domestic jobs and renovations. You drill a hole, insert the plug, and drive in the screw — simple and effective. That said, I don’t tend to use these much myself. I prefer concrete screws — they offer a better grab and feel more structurally sound. With concrete fixings, you just drill a pilot hole and drive the screw straight in — no plugs, no fuss, and a stronger hold in my experience.

Wall plugs still have their place, especially for lighter-duty fixings or when working with older masonry, but for anything load-bearing or structural, concrete screws are my go-to.

Most Common Head & Drive Types

• Countersunk Pozidriv (PZ) Most common for wood and multi-purpose screws. Offers better grip than Phillips and is less prone to cam-out. Often referred to as Pozi on site or in product listings.

• Torx (Star drive) Increasingly popular for high-torque ap

  plications — less cam-out, better bit engagement, and cleaner driving.

• Phillips (PH) Widely used in general construction and furniture. Prone to cam-out under high torque but still common. Commonly known as Phillips, especially in DIY circles and packaging.

If you're just getting started, the Bosch 32 Piece Screwdriver Bit Set Pro - https://tidd.ly/4hDGnud is a solid all-rounder. It covers all the common heads like PZ, PH, and Torx — ideal for most UK site work and DIY jobs.

What Is Cam-Out?

Cam-out happens when the driver bit slips out of the screw head while driving — usually because the bit isn’t seated properly or the screw is being driven too softly. You’ll feel it start to spin, and if you don’t correct it, the head can strip and become unusable.

It’s often down to:

• Using the wrong bit (PH2, PZ2, Torx, etc.)

• Driving too gently — if you don’t apply firm, consistent pressure, the bit starts to spin

• Poor alignment — the bit needs to be square in the head before you start

• Screw quality — cheaper screws are more prone to cam-out and stripping. The heads aren’t machined as cleanly, and the metal’s often softer. Spending a bit more on decent screws (like Spax) saves time and frustration.

The Wrap‑Up

I've only scratched the surface of the many screws and drill bits out there, but these are the ones I reach for most often on the job.

Got a favourite brand, a go‑to type, or a question about what works best in certain situations? Share your thoughts in the comments.

Some of the gear I mention includes affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you buy through them. It won’t cost you anything extra—and it helps keep the site running.